SS13 TWISTED ILLUSIONS

SS13 collection is mainly inspired by the Ovid Metamorphoses and its mythological tales, linked by the idea of transformation ,where men and women find themselves magically changed into new and sometimes extraordinary beings,  often as a result of love and lust.

With this in mind each outfit relates to a Myth and a Character and how the interaction of humans, nature and time can create unexpected result or even change our perception of colours and shapes.
Therefore fabrics are a mix of pure silks mixed with vintage lace and used fabrics, hand dyed with natural colours and embellished with sequins found along the way…

The YELLOW NET was born out of a vintage curtain found in Paris. The beautiful yellow flowers intertwined with the net, I wrapped it around the body and it soon transformed into a pattern.
DAPHNE
“She had hardly ended her prayer when a heavy numbness came over her body; her soft white bosom was ringed in a layer of bark, her hair was turned into foliage, her arms into branches. The feet that had run so nimbly were sunk into sluggish roots; her head was confined in a treetop; and all that remained was her beauty ”.

The ANGEL DRESS is a reflection on love, relationship and entanglement with all the joy and struggle that comes with it.

MEDEA “Desire and reason are pulling in different directions. I see the right way and approve it, but follow the wrong. I am royal; so why should I sigh for a stranger, or ever conceive of a marriage which takes me away from home? Love can be found here too. ”

The GREEN KIMONO refers to the sun reflection walking on grass on a summer breezy day and the feel of wind going through the skin.
NARCISSUS
“Imagine a ring of grass, well-watered and lush, and a circle of trees for cooling shade in the burning summer sunshine. (…) Thirsty for water, he started to drink, but soon grew thirsty for something else. His being was suddenly overwhelmed by a vision of beauty. He fell in love with an empty hope a shadow mistaken for substance.”

 

PROSPERINA
“Her limbs grew sodden, her bones started to bend, her nails let go of their firmness. First to melt were her slightest features: the dark green hair, the fingers, the legs and the feet – it doesn’t take ong for the slenderer members to change into waves of chilly liquid. The next to go were her shoulders and back, her sides and her breasts, as they vanished away into insubstantial rivulets. Nothing solid remained, when lastly the lifeblood coursing her weakened veins was taken over by water.”

Credits:

Photos: Leoni Blue

MUA: Lesley Vye

Styling: Hannah Oakley

 For more info visit www.cristinadami.com

Alberta Ferretti: iris hue for the transparent top shinning pants including the shoes.

How many hues of blue do you know? Probably 10 while in reality there are more than 60 as Wikipedia confirms. Blue is one of the three primary colors together with yellow and magenta (shade of red).

I have to admit that blue and all its shades is probably my favorite color because it gives me a sense of peacefulness and tranquility, and it is also the color of the sky and of the sea.

Cacharel: baby blue and azure for this long sleeveless gown.

From baby or sky blue to midnight blue : it can satisfy every taste and can be perfect in any occasion.

Awhile ago someone defined the blue colour as the new black : so from the little black dress to the little blue dress – why not ?

This colous can be easily matched with red (navy style), white (stripes or polka dot), grey, green, beige, yellow, even if with black only if the shade of blue is light.

Antonio Berardi: white and turquoise sequins to embellish this dress. 

One of my favorite shade of blue is peacock : I think it is very elegant, sophisticated and also in this case it can be matched with many other colours.

Very often my outfit is composed of various shades of blue while the accessories are completely another colour and the result is superb. You should try it.

Guy Laroche: sophisticated midnight blue for this outfit matched with white and blue shoes 

the only case in which I dont’ like much the blue colour used for makeup .

If I have to choose something and one of these items is blue, be sure that my choice goes for the blue one : it is like an obsession.

Les Copains: different shades of blue and mixed metallic prints

Elie Saab: deep cobalt blue for the shirt, blazer, the shorts and the accessories.

Giorgio Armani: layering and various hues of blue for this exotic outfit.

Clips: shiny turquoise more green than blue  for the pants, animalier print for the blouse and baby blue tank top but dark blue heels.

Alice+Olivia:  white and blue.

N21: casual top on a sexy skirt mixing white and blue and black.

.Normaluisa: striped short blazer on a printed balloon dress.

Philip Lim:  patchwork of white, blue and black.

Saint Laurent: peacock gown and bluette coat for a great colour block.

Chloe: Jeans, light grey, blue grey for this casual chic outfit.

Young Italo-Haitian designer Stella Jean was born and currently works in Rome, where she lives with her two children.

She grew up in a family where multiculturalism, art, fashion and beauty belonged to daily life. Her Haitian mother, a very elegant woman who always had a passion for fashion, has always been Stella’s main inspiration source. Her father is an artist from Turin who designs and creates high-end jewelry.

After her classical studies, Stella begins her career as a model for Egon Von Fürstenberg, but soon discovers her real creative calling.

Since July 2011, when she was one of the winners of the prestigious Who’s On Next contest, her collections keep being cherished by the international press and the buyer world.

In September 2012 she debuted during Milan’s Fashion Week, with a brave, sophisticated and suggestive show in collaboration with White, in the beautiful backdrop of the Rotonda della Besana.

Stella Jean’s style is pure métissage, which echoes and evokes her personal story. The refined and precious mood of Stella Jean designs is incessantly inspired by her multiculturalism, which she translates into her very own, unmistakable style: the “Wax & Stripes” Philosophy”. Her distinctive style is not only the union between waxed textiles, Fifties chic, men’s shirt fabric and an impeccable European cut: the designer always looks to the future and to the possible historical and cultural combinations, for a transversal and groundbreaking creativity which poses no limits to cultural, social and fabric mixes. All this is being supported by the necessity to project a new idea of multiculturalism, of which Stella is a real-life example.

Sold globally in the most important fashion stores all over the world and worn by the most elegant women in the world, her clothes are a very personal interpretation of timeless style.

SPRING|SUMMER 2013

A brave and sophisticated collection which conceptually and instinctively overcomes all time and space boundaries, going towards new and exciting destinations. The theme of the journey, together with sociocultural suggestions, shapes a collection that has bon-ton humour as conditio sine qua non. A serious but still light-hearted exercise that matches those two “primary colours” with all the nuances in the world, with limitless grace and futuristic ladylike suggestions. The outfits on the catwalk prove the extraordinary richness of the multicultural roots of their designer, through a singular and intensely suggestive style.

The Hawaiian print cotton shirt discovers a mannish-chic personality and is worn with oversize accessories of nonchalant and spontaneous femininity. Waxed cotton docks on the coasts of Brittany and impertinently wears a striped shirt for a bizarre mariniére effect. The beach jacket in terry cloth, in the most exquisite Fifties spirit, experiments with silk lining with stripes and polka dots, becoming the co-protagonist of a metropolitan reactionary movement. Chemisiers in brightly coloured waxed cotton and mannish pinstripes alternate with chic little numbers in waxed fabrics, made precious by dainty lace collars and by hats of substantial size.

Jewels and accessories complete the looks by adding an extravagant and very glamorous touch: the bangles in terry cloth and gilt studs are worn in numbers, alternating with Fifties-style tube bangles with big bells, for a choreographic chargé effect. The pochettes  become maxi envelopes in wicker, waxed cotton and terry cloth, decorated with small studs.

The unmistakable style of the “Wax & Stripes philosophy” which makes Stella Jean’s creative universe so distinctive is re-launched and renewed by the choice and the combination of elements which appear to be in open antithesis. The matching of oxymorons highlight a strong stylistic consistency and make for a harmonious, multicoloured and joyous marriage.

And so it keeps being…      ….as you like it.

For more info visit www.stellajean.it

 Fiorella nel suo atelier in Corso Como, 9  a Milano

Significato della parola sartoria: insieme delle attività che riguardano la confezione degli abiti (Fonte Dizionario italiano).

Questo articolo lo dedico alle poche sarte oramai rimaste le quali hanno vestito per anni intere generazioni e poi con l’avvento del prêt-à-porter sono andate lentamente scomparendo a differenza dei sarti i quali mantengono ben salda la loro posizione. Come mai andare dal sarto e’ sinonimo di classe ed eleganza mentre andare dalla sarta e’ sinonimo di ” non trovi nulla di pronto nei negozi perché’ la tua taglia..”? Personalmente non ho mai pensato che andare dalla sarta fosse un ripiego bensì una scelta ben precisa: Io vado sia dalla sarta e sia dalla magliaia quando voglio regalarmi un capo unico, esclusivo, pensato per la mia figura e create per ME. L’opposto e’ andare in negozio scegliendo un capo già’ confezionato su taglie standard con una vestibilita’ più’ o meno idonea al tuo fisico, venduto in tutta Italia se non in mezza Europa, con il rischio di trovarsi in giro con un’altra ragazza che indossa lo stesso vestito.

Alcune delle creazioni di Fiorella

Il bello del made-to -measure o addirittura bespoke (soprattutto per i signori) e’ quello di partire da un modello o da un’idea e di personalizzarlo, assieme alla sarta o magliaia,  scegliendo la stoffa oppure la lana, il colore, il taglio, la lunghezza, i bottoni, le eventuali decorazioni (ricami, pizzi, applicazioni varie) e alla fine di indossarlo e vedere come nasconda i difetti ed esalti i pregi della proprio fisico. Tutto cio’ richiede tempo, un po’ piu’ di spesa e voglia di distinguersi dalla massa. A differenza del negozio se c’e un problema con il capo fatto su misura (filo tirato, allargare il cinturino, accorciare i pantaloni) ci rivolgiamo alla sarta che ce lo ha confezionato mentre non potremmo fare la stessa cosa con il negozio – anche questo e’ sevizio su misura.

Per me in tutto cio’ non c’e’ nulla di nuovo avendo la fortuna di avere una magliaia, e che magliaia, in casa sapendo benissimo quanto lavoro, studio, impegno e passione ci sia dietro ad ogni singolo capo creato.

Alcune delle creazioni di Fiorella

Durante la settimana della moda ho fatto visita a Fiorella, amica, sarta, insegnante alla universita’ di Urbino, proprietaria di una sartoria a Jesi e di un’atelier in Corso Como a Milano. Ogni volta che ci incontriamo discutiamo sempre su come le nuove generazioni non conoscano certi aspetti della moda come quello di frequentare una sartoria.

Spero davvero che ci sia un ritorno al buon gusto, alla voglia di essere uniche, di essere vestite bene perché’ aiuta a farci sentire più’ belle e sicure di se.

In queste foto potete ammirare alcune delle favolose creazioni della Sartoria Fiorella.

 La collana di bottoni nel color senape

 Giacca in tweed arricchiata da una preziosa passamaneria in puro stile Chanel

 Il montone smanicato

Il cappotto pied de poule

Fiorella Home: articoli per decorare la propria casa

Ringrazio Sartoria Fiorella ed Elisa Romagnoli